Types of train
Train services in Italy are run by the state company Ferrovie dello
Stato (FS). Prices are charged per mile, and vary according to which
type of train you travel on.
Eurostar (ES* or treni eurostar Italian)
These are the pride of the FS fleet (and not to be
confused with the namesake which connects Paris and London). Fast,
comfortable and businesslike, these modern express trains connect
some of the larger Italian cities. Of course, they are also the
most expensive way to travel, although special offers are sometimes
available. Carriages are air-conditioned and open-plan. In first-class
newspaper, drink and snack are provided in the mornings. No-smoking.
Seat reservations are compulsory, and allocated when you buy your
ticket. Details are printed on tickets, and all seats are numbered,
though reservations aren't displayed onboard. You can travel without
an actual paper ticket, using the 'ticketless' (just pronounce it
with an Italian accent) system. You should print or note down your
reference details, seat number and so on.
Intercity
These trains trundle their way along the length of
Italy, connecting the towns that Eurostar doesn't reach, as well
as offering a cheaper method of travelling between major destinations.
They are slower and less comfortable than Eurostar but this is reflected
in their prices. For some journeys covered by both types of train,
the saving is very large compared with the extra time taken.
New modern Intercity Plus trains are comfortable and smart. Older
Intercity trains are frequently divided into compartments seating
6 people, with a corridor alongside. They are shabbier and services
like air-conditioning aren't always that reliable. Seats are numbered
and reservations are usually displayed on the window between the
corridor and the compartment. There are first and second-class carriages
– first isn't amazingly luxurious but it is more comfortable
and usually much less crowded.
Reservations are optional but a good idea – especially on
long journeys or between popular tourist destinations. It costs
a little extra to reserve seats – although the frequent special
offers usually include a reservation.
Further down the scale come the trains which serve provincial destinations.
Diretti and interregionali connect smaller stations. They are cheap,
but not as reliable or fast as the Intercity or Eurostar trains.
Local trains only have second-class seating and don't offer seat
reservations.
Buying train tickets
The most straightforward way to buy tickets is from
the automatic machines in stations. The ones in Rome, and at most
other major stations, are plentiful, efficient, multi-lingual, take
credit cards and there is hardly ever a queue. Much better than
waiting in a long line for a surly assistant behind a glass window.
It's also possible to buy tickets online from the FS website (see
above). Their terms and conditions state you must be resident in
Italy to use the service, and to register you need an Italian tax
code (or try contacting their helpdesk for registration assistance).
If you do use the online service, you can collect your ticket from
an automatic machine in any station.
You must always validate your ticket by stamping it in the machines
provided on platforms. Inspectors can be very hard on anyone travelling
without valid tickets, and they don't always take pity on bewildered
tourists (it's always worth a try though). If you absolutely can't
find a machine that works - this goes for buses as well - try writing
the date and time on the ticket yourself. This shows your good intentions.
Special offers
The Trenitalia website frequently features excellent
special offers. Bargains often include travel anywhere in Italy,
first or second-class, for a set low price. Check the website for
up-to-date deals and book in advance. On our Italy blog we will
highlight some of the special offers and tips for cheap train travel.
General advice on rail travel
* Most trains are air-conditioned (note that Italians
don't like windows being opened leading to dreaded draughts). Blinds
are generally provided, and can be pulled down to keep out the hot
sun - you might not see the view but you'll be much more comfortable.
* Train toilets are usually quite decent and well-stocked with FS-branded
toilet tissue, although long journeys take their toll,.
* Don't be afraid to ask passengers to move if they're sitting in
your seats. Be confident, brandish your reservation details and
wait with a friendly but firm air for them to move.
* Travellers, especially on long routes, are usually keen to chat.
In compartments it's normal to greet your fellow passengers on arrival/departure,
or at least acknowledge their presence.
* Booking online, on station machines, or over the phone is efficient
and much more convenient that queueing at ticket desks. You can
change reservations over the phone, subject to seat availability.
Useful vocabulary
treno - train
carrozza – carriage
posto – seat
compartimento – compartment
capotreno – train conductor
partenze - departures
arrivi - arrivals
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